Assembly and Operating Instructions for HiViz Kits
Instructions for the Vivitar 283/285/3700 Cable Kit Assembly (VPC2)
Assembly instructions for other kits
| Overview
|
||||||||
The parts provided with the VPC2 kit are listed below together with the tools that you need for assembly.
|
||||||||
|
Preparing the PC-1 cord
Begin by cutting the PC-1 cord in half. You'll use the half shown to the left. (You could use the other half to make a PC cord if you wished. In that case, see these instructions.)
Using a pair of wire strippers, carefully strip back the cut end of the PC-1 cord a distance of 1 inch. You'll see a copper sheath surrounding black insulation. Pull back the sheath and twist the wires together as shown to the right. Then strip back the black insulation to within about 1/8 inch from the black jacket. It's important to make sure there are no stray wires from the copper sheath that touch the other wire.
Next, you'll need the gray 2-conductor cable. From one end of the cable, strip back the gray insulation about 2 inches. Then strip back the red and black insulation about 3/4 inch. The result is also shown to the right. |
||||||||
Splicing the wires
There are 2 sizes of HST, 3/32-inch diameter and 3/16-inch diameter. Cut the 3/32-inch piece into two equal lengths of 1 inch. Then slide them over the red and black insulation as shown to the left.
Next, twist the following pairs of wires tightly together as shown to the right: i) black wire of the 2-conductor cable and copper sheath of the PC-1 ii) red wire of the 2-conductor cable and black wire of the PC-1.
|
||||||||
| Soldering the splices
If you're using a soldering iron and are new to soldering, see the Soldering Tips below. The soldered connections should look similar to the photo to the left. Again, make sure there are no stray wire strands that could bridge from one splice to the other.
|
||||||||
|
||||||||
Shrinking the HST
Slip each piece of 3/32-inch HST completely over the corresponding splice. Then, using a lighter or a match, move the flame smoothly back and forth along the entire length of the tubing, with the tip of the flame just beneath it. If you hold the flame too long in one spot or too closely to the tubing, you will notice smoke. If this happens, lower your flame and continue moving it back and forth. The tubing will visibly shrink, and will be acceptably tight-fitting after only 10-15 seconds of heating. See the results to the left. |
||||||||
Securing the splices
Slide the 3/16-inch HST over the gray 2-conductor cable so that it completely covers the two spliced wires. The photo to the left shows the HST before it's been slipped all the way over the wires.
Use a flame as before to shrink the tubing. The result is shown to the right.
|
Adding the RCA plug
-
The last thing to do is add the RCA plug to the free end of the cable. Unscrew the black jacket from the RCA plug as shown in Figure 1 below.
-
Refer to Figure 2. Push the black jacket over the cable. If you find the fit too tight, snip off part of the collar that grips the cable. Once you have the jacket on the cable, strip back the gray insulation 1/4 inch. Then strip the red and black wires 1/8 inch.
-
Important: Don't crimp the metal tabs around the gray insulation before soldering. If you do, the heat of soldering can melt the insulation. Now thread the red wire through the smaller of the two solder lugs and solder it. Then solder the black wire to the longer lug. This lug can take a lot of heating since there's so much metal. Make sure that it gets hot enough for the solder to flow freely. The metal takes a while to cool down, so don't touch it for a while. After you've finished soldering, examine the connections for stray wire strands. Clip off any that you find. Figure 3 shows the completed solder joints.
-
Crimp the metal tabs around the gray cable and screw the jacket on. The completed connector is shown in Figure 4.
-
The completed cable for connection from the trigger box to a flash unit is shown in Figure 5.
Assembly instructions for other kits















