Assembly
and Operating Instructions for HiViz Kits
Assembly
instructions for other kits
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These instructions are for preparing a cable to connect from a flash unit to an RCA jack on a trigger box. The flash unit must have a PC jack
that will accept a standard PC plug. A typical jack
and plug are shown in the photos below. Click on either
image for a larger view.
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Flash with PC jack on the side |

Standard PC plug |
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The parts provided with the PC2 kit are listed below together with the tools that you need for assembly.
| Parts supplied with PC2 kit:
3-feet of 2-conductor cable
PC plug (cord is cut on one end)
RCA plug (male)
2-inch length heat shrink tubing (HST), 3/32-inch
diameter
3-inch length heat shrink tubing
(HST), 3/16-inch diameter |
Helpful
tools and supplies:
Wire stripper
15- or 30-watt soldering iron and solder
Wet sponge or towel
Lighter or matches to shrink HST
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The PC cord supplied with the kit is shown to the left. Using a pair of wire strippers, carefully strip
back the cut end of the PC cord a distance of 1 inch.
You'll see a copper sheath surrounding white insulation.
Pull back the sheath and twist the wires together
as shown to the right. Then strip back the white insulation
to within about 1/8 inch from the black jacket. It's
important to make sure there are no stray wires from
the copper sheath that touch the other wire.
Next, you'll need the gray 2-conductor cable. From one end of the cable,
strip back the gray insulation about 2 inches. Then
strip back the red and black insulation about 3/4 inch.
The result is also shown to the right. |
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There are 2 sizes of HST, 3/32-inch diameter and
3/16-inch diameter. Cut the 3/32-inch piece into two
equal lengths of 1 inch. Then slide them over the
red and black insulation as shown to the left.
Next, twist the following pairs of wires tightly
together as shown to the right: i) black wire and
copper sheath ii) red wire and white wire.
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If you're using a soldering iron and are new to soldering,
see the Soldering Tips below. The soldered connections should
look similar to the photo to the left. Again, make
sure there are no stray wire strands that could bridge
from one splice to the other.
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Solder in a well-lit, well-ventilated, open
area. Avoid contact with all metal surfaces
on the iron.
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Keep the tip of the soldering iron clean
by wiping it against a wet sponge or towel
before and after each use. A clean tip should
look shiny and silvery; any yellow or black
material on the tip will get into the solder
and may weaken your solder joint.
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Once the tip of your soldering iron is clean,
touch a bit of solder to the tip just before
use. This is called tinning, and helps the
solder run more evenly.
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Heat the connection to be soldered by holding
the soldering iron to it, until solder applied
at the junction between the two melts and
flows freely. This ensures the connection
and the solder are both hot enough to yield
a good solder joint. This should take no more
than 10-15 seconds. After the connection is
heated, try to get solder along the entire
length of the connection by briskly moving
the solder and iron along.
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Avoid touching only the solder to the connection,
and then the soldering iron to the solder
to melt it onto the connection. The connection
will be cooler than the melted solder and
won’t form a good solder joint.
- Let new solder joints cool for several seconds
before examining them. There should be solder
all the way around the connection, forming a
rigid joint. When done, unplug your soldering
iron and let it cool.
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Slip each piece of 3/32-inch HST completely
over the corresponding splice. Then, using a lighter
or a match, move the flame smoothly back and forth
along the entire length of the tubing, with the tip
of the flame just beneath it. If you hold the flame
too long in one spot or too closely to the tubing,
you will notice smoke. If this happens, lower your
flame and continue moving it back and forth. The tubing
will visibly shrink, and will be acceptably tight-fitting
after only 10-15 seconds of heating. See the results
to the left.
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Slide the 3/16-inch HST over
the gray 2-conductor so that it completely covers
the two spliced wires as shown to the left. Then use
a flame as before to shrink the tubing. The result
is shown to the right.
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The last thing to do is add the RCA plug to the free end of the cable. Unscrew the black jacket from the RCA plug as shown in Figure 1 below.
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Refer to Figure 2. Push the black jacket over the cable. If you find the fit too tight, snip off part of the collar that grips the cable. Once you have the jacket on the cable, strip back the gray insulation 1/4 inch. Then strip the red and black wires 1/8 inch.
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Important: Don't crimp
the metal tabs around the gray insulation before
soldering. If you do, the heat of soldering can
melt the insulation. Now thread the red wire through the
smaller of the two solder lugs and solder it.
Then solder the black wire to the longer lug.
This lug can take a lot of heating since there's
so much metal. Make sure that it gets hot enough
for the solder to flow freely. The metal takes
a while to cool down, so don't touch it for a
while. After you've finished soldering,
examine the connections for stray wire strands.
Clip off any that you find. Figure 3 shows
the completed solder joints.
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Crimp the metal tabs around the
gray cable and screw the jacket on. The completed
connector is shown in Figure 4.
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The completed cable for connection from the trigger box to a flash unit is shown in Figure 5.
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| Figure 1. Removing the jacket from the RCA plug |
Figure 2. Stripping wires in preparation to add RCA connector |
Figure 3. RCA plug connected to the red and black wires |
Figure 4. RCA plug connected to cable |
Figure 5. PC cable ready to connect to trigger box |
Assembly
instructions for other kits