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Assembly and Operating Instructions for Kits


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Assembly Instructions for the Output Extension Kit (MT2ext) for the Multi-Trigger 2 (Build 1)


Assembly instructions for other kits



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Getting started


We assume that you've already built a Multi-Trigger 2 and have that working. Figure 1 shows a Multi-Trigger 2 with the output extension strip mounted on the left-hand side of the project box. This is how the box will look when you're finished with this project. Figure 2 shows the box in the same orientation with the arrangement of the interior components shown. Note that the output strip is mounted on the side of the box opposite the battery.


Template taped to side of project box Template taped to side of project box
Figure 1. Multi-Trigger 2 with output extension strip Figure 2. Layout of interior of project box


Adding the resistors and SCRs to the PCB


Completed PCB

The Multi-Trigger 2 PCB before adding the two additional 100-ohm resistors and SCRs is shown in the photo to the left.


Solder the resistors into the locations R16 and R17 and the SCRs into the locations SCR3 and SCR 4.


Mounting the output strip


Template taped to side of project box

Figure 3

Step 1


Remove the lid and the battery holder from the Multi-Trigger box.

Tape the template for the holes on the side of the box as shown in Figure 3.

Use a punch to mark the centers of the holes.

Remove the template and drill the holes.

Holes drilled in box

Figure 4

Box with rectangular slot in box

Figure 5

Step 2


The box with holes drilled is shown in Figure 4.


Now use a small saw blade and a file to cut out a slot as shown in Figure 5. You'll be able do all the soldering to the jacks before bolting the strip on. Also, you'll easily be able to connect the grounds to each other.

soldered strip

Figure 6

Step 3


The shorter terminals on the jacks are the ground terminals. You can solder all of them together. Use the black wire. Strip off all the insulation and then thread the wire through the terminals. Connect the white wire to an end terminal.


Connect the other 4 wires to the longer terminals on the jacks. We recommend connecting the colors in the order shown so that they will coincide with the instructions that follow.

soldered strip

Figure 7

interior of box with strip mounted

Figure 8

Step 4


Now you can feed the wires through the slot and bolt the strip to the box as shown in Figure 7. Note the order of the colors from left to right: white, blue, red, green, yellow.


You can also stick the strip of labels above the output jacks. Later, we'll give the significance of the labels.




An overhead view of the interior of the box is shown in Figure 8.

box with PCB in position

Figure 9

box with PCB in position

Figure 10

Step 5


Place the overturned lid next to the box as shown in Figure 9. This is the orientation most convenient for making connections.


Now solder these connections:

  • blue wire to hole H
  • red wire to hole C
  • green wire to hole K
  • yellow wire to hole D
  • white wire to hole 1

The completed connections are shown in Figure 10. Note that the white wire is shown connecting to a different hole than 1, actually M. Don't worry, holes 1 and M are both ground connections (as is hole 16 for that matter). In the photo, hole 1 had already been used to connect the PCB to the lid, thus making hole M available.

Template taped to side of project box

Figure 11

Step 6


You can now close up the box. Fold the wires carefully into the box as you close it and avoid pinching wires between the lid and the base. The extended outputs are ready to use.


Using the outputs


Here's what you need to know to use the outputs:


I means INSTANT and D means DELAYED. These outputs are triggered at the same time as the INSTANT and DELAYED outputs on the top of the box.


S means SWITCH and V means VOLTAGE.


The SWITCH outputs can be used to trigger flash units that have high-voltage trigger circuits (up to 400 V).


The VOLTAGE outputs are actually voltage pulses of about 7.5V. The instant pulse is very short. The delayed pulse lasts for the same amount of time as the TIMEOUT LED is lit. Here are some examples of ways the VOLTAGE outputs can be used:

  • triggering a flash unit that requires a low voltage pulse. Some studio units have such a requirement.

  • triggering a Camera Opto-Switch. Of course, you already have camera-enabled outputs on the lid. But maybe you have an application where you want to trigger two cameras at the same time.
  • actuating a solid-state relay. You might want to use a relay to switch another device on or off. For example, if you're using a laser as the light source for the photogate, you could use a relay with a normally-closed state to switch the laser on and a normally-open state to trigger a flash. When the flash is triggered, the laser shuts off momentarily. This prevents a red spot from being on your subject in the photo.




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